Drastically.GIMP is one of the most powerful all-purpose image editing apps and is beloved by many creatives. I would probably use the commercial Flexify plugin for Photoshop (as in this blog entry), and do a mirrorball to equirectangular mapping on both the images, then rotate one in Hugin/PTGui, combine them using masks and layers in Photoshop/Gimp to erase the tripod/camera, and then map it back to a mirrorball, and then mask the mirrorball back into one of the original images.īut then, I do equirectangular 360x180s all the time, and this doesn't seem like a lot of post-processing to me.
Gimp flexify 2 equivalent Patch#
You don't want to shoot 180-degree images, because the places of the pixels you'd want to patch with would be more or less identical in both images. Since nobody's mentioned this, the time-honored method for creating a lightprobe image from a chromed ball bearing is to take two images of the ballbearing at right angles (90-degree), and then unwarp, rotate, and merge them, using portions of each image to erase the camera/tripod/photographer as well as replace the lower-quality pixels from the edge of the sphere with higher-quality ones from the center. Of course you can also use a normal lens the correct the perspective in a photo editing software, but the result's quality may not be as good as a tilt-shift lens In the case of a very wide-angle T/S lens and/or very large mirror, you may not be able to shift enough to dematerialize yourself. (You can sometimes also do this by lowering the camera and shifting the lens upward.) See which new view in the mirror looks better in your image-left, right, or up. Set up the composition (a tripod is a near-must), then step the camera to one side or the other until you and it are out of the reflection. Objects in front of the mirror, though, will look rearranged from a head-on perspective. How it works: If you keep a camera parallel to a mirror, but off to the side, and then shift the lens sideways toward the mirror, the picture will appear as if taken head-on. Handy for some product photography, too, as it lets you literally shoot around objects.
It’s a handy trick for shooting interior decor, as well as for artistic photography of still lifes with mirrors. You can use shift on the lens to shoot into a mirror without-shades of Dracula!-you or the camera appearing in the mirror. By moving the camera off to one side of the mirror, and shifting the lens in the opposite direction, an image of the mirror can be captured without the reflection of the camera or photographer. In case of a flat mirror then there's another way using tilt-shift lensĪnother use of shifting is in taking pictures of a mirror.
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How to shoot a reflection in a highly reflective surface (mirror, ball bearing, et cet) without me appearing in it? Note: this was answered before the question was edited to remove the "mirror" in the title Changing your approach angle to the mirror will change the position of your reflection within the sphere, perhaps off the side where it less noticeable. With mirrors, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection, allowing you to determine the position of your now smaller reflection where ever you like within the reflective sphere. The mirror can also help you to position where your reflection is located within the object. Therefore, by using a mirror, you can effectively reduce the overall size of your own reflection, without requiring significant physical distance between you and the spherical object. Thus, they get the combined distance of 2x the room (patient to front mirror+front mirror to eye chart) for a total of 5m. But often, the facility does not have an examining room long enough to test distance vision, so instead, they have a mirror 2.5 meters in front of patient, and an eye chart on the wall behind the patient. An eye exam requires the patient to read a standard chart at a distance of 5 meters. This is often used in eye doctor offices for eye exams. If you stand a distance of 2 meters from a plane mirror, you must focus at a location 2 meters behind the mirror in order to view your image. That is the image is the same distance behind the mirror as the object is in front of the mirror. Again, a telephoto lens and distance are your friends.īased on the comments, I will explain the mirror application further: With mirrors, the distance you stand away from the mirror is the same as the distance which you must focus on the object in the mirror.įor plane mirrors, the object distance (often represented by the symbol do) is equal to the image distance (often represented by the symbol di). Your reflection will be much smaller.Ĭan also use a mirror, which will effectively do same thing: position mirror on one side, then you and camera on other to reduce your reflection. Use a telephoto lens, positioning you and camera several feet/meters away.